Unique Cafes in Gwangju
that Embody the Local Spirit

Photo Essay

One of the first things that comes to mind when thinking of “Gwangju” is probably “food.” In addition to the well-known dishes like tteokgalbi (grilled galbi patties), ori tang (duck soup), and yukjeon (pan-fried battered beef) that have been featured on TV programs, there are also the Yangdong Market chicken, which has become a must-try food at baseball stadiums and is closely associated with the local identity, Gwangju jumeokbap (rice ball), as well as charming cafes and bars that reflect the preferences of both local residents and the MZ generation (Millennials and Generation Z) and local bakeries that gather bread enthusiasts from all over the country, leading the footsteps of both locals and tourists.

On the other hand, it might be due to saying: “All Gwangju (or Jeollanam-do) food is delicious!” but when someone asks, “What should I eat in Gwangju? Give me recommendations!”, you find yourself thinking even more carefully, “Where should I recommend so that they can eat well during their stay in Gwangju?” This is even more true of cafes. Rather than going to a franchise cafe where you can drink the same beverages anywhere, the question arises of where in this region one can enjoy something unique and exclusive to this place, where the meaning and value are enhanced because it is here.

I tried to find the solution in local produce (agricultural, livestock, and fishery products, specialty products). Until now, many TV programs have introduced local specialty products, as well as various foods, recipes, and restaurants that utilize local produce. That's right. In any region, there are agricultural, livestock, and fishery products that are produced within their own hometowns, and among them, there are specialty products that represent the region. For example, Jeju tangerines, Naju pears, Sangju dried persimmons, Nonsan strawberries, Gochang Korean blackberries, Geumsan ginseng, Gongju chestnuts, Gapyeong pine nuts, Gangwon potatoes, Boseong green tea, Hoengseong beef, Boryeong Beolgyo cockles, Yeongdeok snow crabs, and Yeonggwang dried yellow corvina. These local agricultural products are being reproduced into processed foods such as chocolates, makgeolli (Korean rice wine), ice cream, bread, and so on, for both local residents and tourists.

Then what are some locally produced specialties that we know of in Gwangju? Mudeungsan Mountain watermelon, known to be hard to come by in the market due to low supply, and Chunseol tea and Chunseol bread, which even the residents of Gwangju aren't very familiar with? Let's put aside the specialties that are rare and unknown even to Gwangju residents. I want to explore breakthroughs through two cafes that are developing and selling menus using locally produced agricultural products in the Gwangju area.

The places I want to introduce are Cafe Bonbbang, which utilizes Gwangju's representative agricultural products to support local farms and provide us with excellent local food, and Tea Edit, which introduces and sells local teas and local ingredients representing Gwangju and various regions in Jeollanam-do, thereby showcasing the local culinary delights.

Using Korean wheat and barley,
with the theme of May of Gwangju

Located in Bollyang-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju, Cafe Bonbbang and the Bonbbang Cooperative are incorporating locally grown wheat and barley from Gwangsan-gu to develop products that also carry the symbolic value of the May 18 Democratic Uprising. Through these product developments, they are seamlessly blending the distinct “local identity” of Gwangju and Gwangsan-gu, the primary wheat-producing region, throughout their offerings.

Cafe Bbonbang is a cafe where you can enjoy delicious bread, including sticky rice bread made with locally produced wheat and barley, as well as local beverages such as green plum juice and sikhye (sweet rice punch) that showcase the names of the producers. They also offer coffee options. Here, they develop products using excellent local agricultural products such as Korean wheat, barley flour, mugwort, onion, and potatoes, among others. By promoting consumption of these products, they help local farmers while providing consumers with safe and reliable food options.

Furthermore, it also serves as a multifunctional cultural space, hosting events such as photo exhibitions and May Jumeokbbang (bread ball)-making classes. The interior of the cafe's outdoor space, which is based on Korean locally produced wheat, is also eye-catching. The representative product of the Bbonbang Cooperative, May Jumeokbbang (bread ball),” is inspired by the iconic food, jumeokbap (rice ball), which comes to mind for Koreans when thinking of the May 18 Democratic Uprising. It helps promote and remember the significance of May in Gwangju. Likewise, it is produced using excellent local agricultural products as the main ingredients.

Storytelling through local teas and food

The reason I discovered Tea Edit was because of a magazine that I happened to read on the KTX train. The magazine introduced unique spaces that reflect the identity, artistic essence, and authenticity of Gwangju. Among them, a photo of a traditional teahouse in Dong-gu and the food served there caught my attention.

Afterwards, on impulse, I took a friend of mine there. Not only was the serene exterior of the traditional hanok building just like in the photos, but the unique menu and menu names were also charming. For instance, “Baramjae Mountain Magnolia,” “Jangbuljae Pass Filled with Flame Grass,” “Like Dew on the Bamboo,” “Rosemary Green Tea with Gokseong Apples,” and “Yuzu Cream Cheese Cake with Powdered Hijiki.” These are examples of storytelling using local teas and ingredients that represent Gwangju and Jeollanam-do, including the Mudeungsan Mountain range.

The use of representative teas symbolizing different regions like the black tea of Jangheung, white tea of Boseong, green tea of Hampyeong, as well as local specialties like Gokseong apples, Gurye five-flavor berries, and Hwasun peaches, strongly conveys a deep affection for Gwangju and Jeollanam-do. Capturing the regional essence of Gwangju and Jeollanam, while also catering to the younger generation who enjoy coffee, the well-plated tea sets and sophisticated store interior, blending traditional Korean charm with a modern sense, were very impressive.

Based on my firsthand experience, it can be concluded that the two spaces mentioned earlier are places that can help create an appealing local image of Gwangju for visitors from outside the region. The elegant facade and presentation, prompting the desire to post on social media when capturing photos, are a given. Built upon exceptional locally sourced agricultural products, they offer secure and wholesome food options that please the palate. This not only benefits the locals by establishing a reliable market for selling and generating income from local goods but also aids in promoting these regional products nationwide, resulting in a multi-faceted impact.

It is said that Koreans rank sixth in the world in terms of coffee consumption. With that in mind, I recommend visiting these unique spaces that showcase the local identity of Gwangju and Jeollanam-do by utilizing local agricultural products. It would be a great way to enjoy a different experience while supporting and appreciating the local produce of the region. I hope you have a wonderful time exploring these spaces over the weekend!

by
Chae Ji-sun (history-2000@hanmail.net)
Photo
Chae Ji-sun
Like Copy link