Geumnam-ro 245 and the Truth Behind 245 Bullet Traces
Jeonil Building 245 and ‘19800518’ Memorial Hall
Summary
- Archive
- Essay
- #May 18 Democratization Movement
- #Jeonil Building
- #Bullet Marks
- #Civic Apace
When they say “let’s meet downtown,” people of Gwangju usually mean Geumnam-ro and Chungjang-ro. Over the long course of its history as a city center, its appearance has changed with time, but the old city hall, Sangmugwan, and Jeonil Building kept their old faces after surviving the tumultuous events of modern history. Jeonil Building, first built in 1968 and built up to a 10-story building after four expansions, once housed Jeonil Broadcast and JeonnamIlbo and later many stockbrokers, banks, and media outlets including Gwangju Ilbo and JeonnamMaeil News, and election camps at every election season. Despite its illustrious history, there were debates about possible demolition due to the age of the building. However, its historical value as a base for citizen resistance during the 5.18 Uprising and the place where the helicopter shooting occurred, along with protests from civic groups against the demolition, saved the building from demolition. In February 2019, the site was remodeled and opened its door again in May 2020 under the new name “Jeonil Building 245.” The “245” refers both to the address Geumnam-to 245 and the 245 bullet traces left on the inside and outside walls. Each floor is painted with one of four colors according to their functions: the basement to the 4th floors are colored in purple, symbolizing a public plaza; the fifth to the seventh floor with restricted access host Gwangju’s content hub companies and are painted sky blue; the ninth and tenth floors reserved as 5.18 Uprising Memorial Hall are yellow-brown; the green color of the eighth and the rooftop garden represents respite.
Public Plaza of Inspiration and Communication for All Citizens
After completing the now-customary temperature check and QR code verification, visitors can see the “Canvas 245.” It is a media artwork projection centered on the theme of ‘Gwangju Reborn” and shows videos above the window wall on the left side of the first-floor lobby. Five videos are played on a loop, and visitors can leave digital messages on the kiosk screen, which are then projected onto the media art ceiling. The same video images are projected onto the outside wall. If you want to leave a birthday message or need something special, this guestbook can give you an idea. Next to it is “Bloom! Stairs” that go up to the third floor. Each floor carries different aspects from the theme of “flower blooming.” The right side of the lobby features an image wall that shows the history of the building and access to Jeonil Archive currently showing a scaled model of the building. If you have time, rent a tablet to see the building in AR. The basement is the historical site of Jeonil Coffee Shop. It now hosts a very retro Salon 245, along with an alleyway that takes you back to the 1980s with videos and images on the theme of alleyways.
The second floor houses Namdo Tourist Center and Digital Information Library, where an image wall made up of greetings in 23 languages and a mascot “Omaena” greet the visitors. It also features an image wall representing the pillar-shaped joints of Mudeungsan National Park and a typographic art of the word “Gwangjudaum.” Also shown are media works by Lee Yi Nam titled Seeing the Light and Beyond the Light projected in 360 degrees in the Gwangju 360. In the Omae Gwangju corner, visitors can also search through food, festivals, hot places, and tourist attractions on a media table. It was a clever machine where the media table senses the sensory blocks and shows the information accordingly. Gwangju Time lets the visitors see tourist attractions using VR and experience Gwangju’s history thematically. On the third floor, the Digital Information Library, a branch of the city library, can be accessed using a Gwangju City Library Card. The floor also has a “Citizen Gallery” where artists and the public can rent the space to organize exhibitions, and currently, there is an exhibit on “YWCA Battle” and “Suppression of Journalism,” which features a diorama that shows the 5.18 Uprising and types used for Gwangju Ilbo. On the fourth floor, NGO Center supports civic groups, along with Jeonil Life and Culture Center, where citizens can look up and enroll in many classes available on its website. From the basement to the 4th floor, the building was open to citizens to experience and participate in different ways. I only listed some of the major features, and the place was full of fun activities around every corner.
[19800518] Memorial Hall
I met with the curator Suh Seung Hee on the first floor, and we visited the tenth floor together. Before the remodeling, they commissioned the National Forensic Service who found bullet traces there. It gave credence to the story that “a helicopter shot at civilians who took refuge in the Jeonil Building,” which was testified by 5.18 survivors and denied by the army. The traces are concentrated on the outside wall of the building and on the tenth floor. As a part of the remodeling, they marked and preserved the wall and kept the bullet traces found on the floors and columns inside the building in their original form. Now visitors can see them up close through the glass skywalk.
[19800518] Memorial Hall / Curator Suh Seung Hee
“The difference between 19800518 Memorial Hall and the 5.18 Democratization Movement Archives or 5.18 Culture Memorial Center is that they have records, and we are the actual sites that bear the evidence of taking a direct hit from the helicopter shooting. The 10th floor is where the most bullet traces were found. We preserved them in their original condition and organized this exhibition hall to explain, offer evidence, and show videos of the incident.”
[19800518] connects the 9th and the 10th floor and features a multi-attraction video experience based on the testimonies of a helicopter shooting against Geumnam-ro and Jeonil Building. The 5 minutes I was there felt much longer as I watched a very realistic depiction of a helicopter flying over the scaled model of the streets at the time. The Memorial Hall also offers a VR experience of the martial law troops indiscriminately shooting. It also plays a video that explains why the army occupied this building and ordered a helicopter shooting goes through the truths and fakes behind the theories about rappelling shooters or shooters from the tourist hotel.
[19800518] Memorial Hall / Curator Suh Seung Hee
“There is a distinct difference between shooting by individual guns and shooting by a helicopter. Helicopter shooting against civilians is considered a civilian massacre, which is why the new military group does not want to recognize it. We have the evidence of bullet marks and testimonies, yet the new army does not disclose the records and won’t let their people testify. We have the evidence, but we don’t have the identity of the perpetrator who ordered or committed the shooting. Anyone who sees the sites is surprised by what they see. Take a careful look at the bullet traces, the three pieces of false ‘evidence’ that refute the evidence, and our counterevidence.”
The hall also exhibits the fake news that seeks to defame the 5.18 Democratic uprising, excerpts and quotes by journalists domestic and abroad from that period, and a scaled model of the helicopter from the shooting. I visited on a weekday, and I could see visitors who came as a family. I was impressed by how young children remained attentive throughout the films and the guided tour by a resident docent.
[19800518] Memorial Hall / Curator Suh Seung Hee
“Before the COVID-19 took a bad turn, we used to get 200 visitors daily and over 1,000 visitors during the 5.18 week. Now we are down to about 2,000 visitors monthly. 41 years after the 5.18 Democratic Uprising, there are still questions remaining, and we still don’t know who ordered the helicopter shooting. But we persist in our effort to inform the public of the truth and history of the 5.18 Democratic Uprising through actual sites and records. We now have generations who do not know what, where, why 5.18 happened. That is why I urge them to visit the sites and learn. We created character content called “Maypop”—May of 5.18 and Pop of ipop trees—to make our history more accessible for our audience and citizens, and you can see our promotional materials on Instagram, too (ID: 19800518_mh).”
Preserved bullet traces are only a part of [19800518] Memorial Hall. Visitors can also experience the helicopter shooting in VR and the site of the helicopter shooting in AR vision and watch the video about the distortions in history. Lastly, the film Epilogue: Bones and Flowers memorializes the spirits of the beautiful May. I was very young in 1980, and I learned about the 5.18 Democratic uprising only after I was in high school. I knew about the photographs and videos from the period, but it was altogether something different to see the traces on the floors and columns. “What if we were there amid flying bullets?” Picturing like that alone sent shudders down my spine.
Jeonil Maru and VOC Lounge
By now, the legs were getting tired, and a place for a quick break was much needed. On the 8th floor, a neon sign wall with a typographic art that says “Sympathy Blooming” greets the weary travelers. This rest stop is where Jeonil Broadcast (VOC) used to be, and you have a good view of the 5.18 Democratic Plaza and Geumnam-ro from here. A coffee shop for beverages and snacks, and there is a “Chimney Garden” outside door, which kept the original chimney of the print shop that churned out newspapers. If you want an even better view and open space, go up to the rooftop. The rooftop garden has pretty photo zones, but the ongoing constructions and cranes in the adjacent building block the view so try the viewing point area. The view of Mudeung Mountain afar and the old City Hall, Sangmu Hall, National Asia Culture Center, and Geumnam-ro nearby calls for a photo shoot. The areas between the fifth and seventh floors colored in sky blue serve as the Gwangju Content Hub and are open only to authorized personnel. Otherwise, all other areas are open to the public for visitation.
Jeonil Building 245 does not have its own website. Check out the introductory page available on Gwangju-si website under the “Culture/Sports/Tourism” menu to search for information before your visit.
Guided tours are scheduled six times a day. Download the reservation form from the Facility Information menu and submit a completed form via e-mail or by fax up to 24 hours before the intended visit date to hear a detailed guided tour with a docent.
Jeonil Building 245 bears the tragic truth of the 5.18 Uprising, and each floor is packed with spaces designed for citizens. High technology such as media art, guestbooks, touch screen blocks, and an interactive zone where visitors can look up famous phrases using a motion sensor appear in harmony with the old bullet traces from 41 years ago, the “Chimney Garden” around the old printing shop chimney, and 245 Salon with the 80’s atmosphere. It is a great destination when you want to escape the late summer heat or for a family outing, a date with loved ones, or a stop while hanging out with friends. Visit to discover the tragic truths buried in Jeonil Building 245 and to enjoy the great attractions hidden on each floor.
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Written by Ok-Su Kim. mono755@daum.net
Photo. In-ho Hwang. photoneverdie@naver.com
2021.09
